That also is the first line of the piece by Amy Scattergood.
But just "who is us?"
I could care less what people eat at Christmastime, and I enjoy ethnic Christmas food as much as anyone. Yet Scattergood's locution is interesting. She considers tamales a treat for "us," even though tamales are most a Mexican food eaten mostly by, well, Mexicans.
In Scattergood's case, assimilation has gone the other way. That's no surprise, considering the demographics of Los Angeles. She and the rest of the whites are the minority.